CHAPTER VI.

DYEING HALF SILK (COTTON-SILK, SATIN) FABRICS.

The direct dyes of the Diamine, Benzo and Congo types have been of late years increasingly used for dyeing satin (silk and cotton), and they have quite displaced the old methods of dyeing this class of fabrics, which consisted in first dyeing the silk with an acid dye and then dyeing the cotton with a basic dye. For details of the method of applying acid dyes to silk reference may be made to Mr. G.H. Hurst's book on Silk Dyeing.

Most of the direct colours are exceedingly well adapted for this purpose, some under certain conditions possess the property of dyeing the cotton a deeper shade than the silk, which is an advantage rather than otherwise.

The dyeing of goods composed of silk and cotton is generally done in winch dye-vats, in some cases also on the jigger.

METHOD OF DYEING.

The direct colours are as a rule dyed in a soap-bath with addition of phosphate of soda, Glauber's salt or common salt and a little soda.

The addition of these salts effects a better exhaustion of the baths; they are therefore principally used for dark and full shades, whilst pale shades are dyed with the addition of soap only or in combination with phosphate of soda. Dark or pale shades may thus be produced at will by selecting the proper additions, but the fact should not be overlooked that the greater exhaustion of the baths not only increases the depth of shade of the cotton but also causes the silk to absorb more dye-stuff. Too large a proportion of salt would cause the dye-stuffs to go on the fibre too quickly and thus make the dyeing liable to turn out uneven.

A large proportion of soap counteracts the effects of the salts, causing the dye-stuff to go on less quickly and tending to leave the silk lighter than the cotton, in some cases even almost white, a property which is valuable in many cases, especially as enabling the silk and cotton to be dyed in different colours to obtain shot effects.

It is thus obvious that a general method applicable in all cases cannot be given; it will vary according to the effect desired, and partly also depend on the material to be dyed.

The following particulars may serve as a guide for the first bath:—

For pale shades each 10 gallons dye-liquor should contain 3-1/4 to 6-1/2 oz. soap and 4 to 7 drs. soda or 3-1/4 to 6-1/2 oz. soap, 4 to 5-1/2 drs. soda and 3-1/4 to 6-1/2 oz. phosphate of soda.

For medium and dark shades each 10 gallons dye-liquor may contain 3-1/4 to 6-1/2 oz. soap, 4 to 7 drs. soda, 3-1/4 to 6-1/2 oz. phosphate of soda and 6-1/2 to 13 oz. cryst. Glauber's salt.

For two coloured effects or dyeings, in which the silk is intended to remain as pale as possible or even white, each 10 gallons dye-liquor may contain 4-3/4 to 8 oz. soap, 4 to 6 drs. soda, 3-1/4 to 8 oz. phosphate of soda and 4-3/4 to 9-1/2 oz. cryst. Glauber's salt.

The temperature of the dye-baths is generally 175 deg. to 195 deg. F.; in practical dyeing it is usual to boil up the fully charged dye-bath, shut off the steam, enter the goods and dye for about three-quarters of an hour.

For obtaining level dyeings in pale shades it is advisable not to enter the goods too hot, but to raise the temperature gradually. Raising the temperature, or dyeing for some time at the boil will deepen the shade of the cotton, but at the same time will have the same effect on the silk which may sometimes be an advantage when dyeing dark shades.

As a complete exhaustion of the baths does not take place, especially when dyeing dark shades, it is advantageous, nay, even imperative, to preserve the baths for further use, they are then replenished with only about three-fourths of the quantities of dye-stuffs used for the first bath, of the soap only about one fourth, of Glauber's salt, soda and phosphate of soda only about one-fifth, of the first quantities are necessary.

The first bath should be prepared with condensed water. If none is at hand ordinary water should be boiled up with soda and soap and the scum removed. Clear soap baths are absolutely necessary for the production of pure shades and clean pieces.

After dyeing, the pieces must be very well rinsed, and the colour raised or brightened with 1 pint of acetic acid in 10 gallons of water.

Many of the Diamine and Titan colours being very fast to acids, but few of them will be affected by this treatment.

In the following tables are given those Diamine, etc., colours especially adapted for the dyeing of goods composed of silk and cotton, divided into three groups according to their relation to silk and cotton:—

1. Dye-stuffs possessing a great affinity to cotton and tinting the silk not at all or only very little. To this class belong Chicago blues, Benzo blues, Diamine fast yellow A, Diamine orange G G, Diamine orange D C, Diamine blue B B, Diamine blue 3 B, Diamine sky blue F F, Diamine brilliant blue G, Diamineral blue E, Diamine black B, Mikado browns, Mikado oranges, Mikado yellows.

2. Dye-stuffs producing on cotton and silk the same or nearly the same shade but covering the cotton better than the silk. These are Thioflavine S, Diamine yellow N, Diamine gold, Diamine fast yellow B, Diamine orange B, Diamine grey G, Diamine rose B D, Diamine scarlet S, Diamine scarlet B, Diamine scarlet 3 B, Diamine red 5 B, Diamine fast red F, Diamine Bordeaux B, Diamine Bordeaux S, Diamine violet N, Oxydiamine violet B, Diamine blue R W, Diamine black H W, Diamine steel blue L, Diamine dark blue B, Union black S, Oxydiamine black D, Diaminogene extra, Diaminogene B, Diamine brown M, Diamine brown 3 G, Diamine green B, Diamine green G.

3. Dye-stuffs producing on cotton more or less different shades than on silk. This group comprises Diamine blue C B, Diamine blue B G, Diamine blue B X, Diamine azo blue 2 R, Diamine blue 3 R, Diamine blue black E, Diamine black R O, Oxydiamine black S O O O, Diamine brown V, Diamine brown B, Diamine bronze G. Cotton brown N produces on silk darker shades than on cotton.

Of course this classification cannot be taken as absolutely correct, as by raising or lowering the temperature during the dyeing process or by a larger or smaller addition of soap or Glauber's salt (common salt, phosphate of soda), the dye-stuffs are more or less influenced in one or the other direction. Diamine violet N, for instance, when dyed with an increased addition of soap would dye the cotton somewhat lighter, but at the same time leave the silk perfectly white.

=Topping with Basic and Acid Dye-stuffs.=—As in very few cases only the desired shade can be obtained in the first instance by bottoming with direct colours, topping generally has to be resorted to. This is best done with basic dyes, in some cases also with acid dye-stuffs in cold or tepid bath with addition of sulphuric acid, hydrochloric or acetic acid. The use of acid dye-stuffs is restricted to cases where the silk alone is to be shaded. In most cases basic dye-stuffs are made use of, which dye silk and cotton the same shade and deepen the shade of the cotton if the latter has a sufficiently good bottom, thus giving the goods a better and fuller appearance.

It is not advisable to employ basic and acid dye-stuffs in the same bath except when the quantities of either class are very small. Should it be necessary to dye with large quantities of both classes, the acid dye-stuffs are first dyed in a tepid acid bath and then the goods are topped with the basic dye-stuffs in a fresh cold bath with the addition of a little hydrochloric or acetic acid.

Of the basic dye-stuffs which are available, the following are the most suitable for topping: New methylene blue N, and other brands; New blue D and other brands; Cresyl blue, Methylindone B and R, Metaphenylene blue, Indazine; the various brands of Brilliant green, Solid green and Malachite green, Capri green, Cresyl violet, Thioflavine T, New phosphine G, Tannin orange R, and the various brands of Bismarck brown; Safranine, Magenta all brands, Tannin heliotrope, all brands of Neutral violet, Methyl violet.

Of the acid dye-stuffs, the following are good for topping or shading the silk: Cyanole extra, Indigo blue N, Indigo blue S G N, and the various brands of Water blue, Soluble blue, Solid blue, and Induline; the various brands of Acid green and Fast acid green; Indian yellow G and R, Naphthol yellow S, Tropaeoline O and O O, and the various brands of Milling yellow and Orange; Azo red A, Azo rubine A, Archil substitute N, Azo orseille B B, Brilliant orseille C, and the various brands of Eosine, Erythrosine, Rose bengale, Rhodamine, Brilliant croceine and Brilliant scarlet; the various brands of Formyl violet and Acid violet; Aniline grey B and Nigrosine, soluble in water.

Bright Yellow.—Use 2 lb. Thioflavine S.

Deep Orange Yellow.—This can be dyed by using 2 lb. Diamine yellow N.

Gold Yellow.—Dye with 2 lb. Diamine gold. Some care must be taken with this, especially not to dye too hot or the silk will be dyed deeper than the cotton.

Deep Orange.—Use 2 lb. Diamine orange B.

Bright Rose.—Use 2 lb. Diamine Rose B D. Do not work too high, especially when dyeing light rose shades, as then the silk is apt to take up too much colour.

Scarlet.—Use in the dye-bath 2 lb. Diamine scarlet H S. The heat of the dye-bath should not be allowed to exceed 160 deg. to 170 deg. F., or there is a risk of the shades becoming somewhat duller.

Crimson.—Dye with 2 lb. Diamine fast red F.

Violet.—Use 2 lb. Oxydiamine violet B.

Bright Blue.—A fine shade is dyed with 2 lb. Diamine blue R W.

Dark Green.—Use 2 lb. Diamine black H W. This gives a fine shade of bluish green.

Gold Brown.—Dye with 2 lb. Diamine brown 3 G at a low heat, from 150 deg. to 160 deg. F., otherwise the silk takes up too much colour.

Dark Green.—Dye with 2 lb. Diamine green B.

Deep Rose.—Dye with 2 lb. Diamine red 10 B.

Brilliant Yellow.—Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Mikado golden yellow 8 G; then enter into a cold bath which contains 1-1/2 per cent. Auramine II. This gives a very bright shade of yellow.

Dark Brown.—Dye a bottom with 2 lb. Mikado brown 3 G O, and then top with 3 lb. Bismarck brown and 1/2 lb. Capri blue G O N.

Crimson.—Dye with 2 lb. Mikado orange 5 R O and 2 lb. Hessian purple N.

Sage Green.—Dye a bottom with 2 lb. Mikado yellow G, 14 oz. Eboli green T and 3 oz. Mikado brown M, then top in a fresh cold bath with 1/2 lb. Auramine II and 1/2 oz. Acridine Orange N 0.

Leaf Green.—Dye a bottom with 3 lb. Mikado golden yellow 8 G and 1 lb. Eboli blue B; then top with 1-1/2 lb. Capri green 2 G in a cold bath.

Deep Brown.—Dye with 2 lb. Mikado orange 3 R O, 3 lb. Hessian grey S and 1 lb. Hessian brown 2 B N; then top with 7 oz. Azine green T 0 and 2-1/4 lb. Acridine orange N 0.

Dark Cream.—Bottom with 1 oz. Diamine orange G; then top in a fresh warm bath with 1 oz. Orange G G, 1/2 oz. Indian yellow R, 5 lb. Glauber's salt and 1 lb. acetic acid.

Brilliant Violet.—Give a bottom with 1 lb. Diamine violet N; then top in a fresh warm bath with 4 oz. Methyl violet B and 2 oz. Rhodamine.

Slate.—Bottom in a hot bath with 6 oz. Diamine dark blue B and 1-1/2 oz. Diamine brown M; then top in a fresh bath at 170 deg. F. with 4 oz. Aniline grey B, 1 oz. Cyanole extra, 5 lb. Glauber's salt and 1 lb. acetic acid.

Black Brown.—Give a bottom with 2 lb. Cotton brown A, 1 lb. Diamine gold and 3-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black S O O O; then top in a fresh bath at 120 deg. F. with 4 oz. New methylene blue N, 1 oz. Safranine and 1/2 oz. Indian yellow G.

Bright Violet.—Use 1/2 lb. Oxydiamine violet B and 3/4 oz. Diamine dark blue B; top after dyeing with 1/2 oz. Safranine, 1/4 oz. Methylindone B and 1/4 oz. Cyanole extra.

Drab.—Dye with 6 oz. Diamine orange G, 1 lb. Diamine bronze G and 3/4 lb. Diamine brown M, topping afterwards in a bath of 1/4 oz. Aniline grey B and 1/4 oz. Bismarck brown F F.

Leaf Green.—Dye with 1/2 lb. Diamine black H W, and 1 lb. Diamine fast yellow B; top with 1/4 oz. Brilliant green, 1/4 oz. Indian yellow R, 1/2 oz. Thioflavine T and 1/2 oz. Cyanole extra.

Dark Crimson.—Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Diamine Bordeaux S, 3/4 lb. Diamine orange D C and 1-1/2 lb. Diamine brown V, topping with 1 oz. Magenta and 1/2 oz. Formyl violet S 4 B.

Turquoise Blue.—Use to dye the ground, 6 oz. Diamine sky blue F F and 1/2 oz. Diamine fast yellow A; top with 1-1/2 oz. Cyanole extra and 1/4 oz. Brilliant green.

Dark Grey.—Dye with 1/2 oz. Diamine grey G, and 1-1/2 oz. Diamine brown M; top with 1/4 oz. Orange extra and 1 oz. Cyanole extra.

Brilliant Orange.—Dye with 1 lb. Mikado orange R O, and top with 6 oz. Acridine orange N O and 12 oz. Auramine I I.

Brown.—Dye a bottom colour with 3 lb. Mikado brown M, and top with 2 lb. Bismarck brown and 6 oz. Cresyl fast violet 2 R N.

Deep Crimson.—Dye with 1 lb. Columbia black R and top with 6 oz. Magenta.

Pale Sea Green.—Use in the dye-bath 1/2 oz. Chrysophenine G, 1-1/2 oz. Chicago blue 6 B and 1-1/2 oz. Alkali blue 6 B.

Bright Crimson.—Dye with 3 lb. Congo Corinth and top with 1 lb. Magenta.

Dark Russian Green.—Dye with 3 lb. Columbia black B; then top with 1 lb. Malachite green.

Gold Drab.—Dye with 5 oz. Columbia black, and top with 5 oz. Chrysoidine R.

Bright Olive Yellow.—Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Diamine gold, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A and 3/4 lb. Diamine bronze G; top with 1/2 lb. Thioflavine T and 1/4 lb. Chrysoidine.

Moss Brown.—Dye with 1 oz. Diamine brown M, 6 oz. Diamine fast yellow A, 6 oz. Diamine bronze G, topping with 1 oz. new Methylene blue N and 4 oz. Orange G G.

Dark Sea Green—Dye a bottom with 9 oz. Diamine black B and 4-1/2 oz. Diamine fast yellow B, then top with 2 oz. New methylene blue M and 2 oz. New phosphine G.

Old Gold.—Dye a ground with 1/2 lb. Diamine gold, 1-1/4 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, and 6 oz. Diamine bronze G, topping with 8 oz. Thioflavine T, 1 oz. Indian yellow R and 1 oz. Brilliant green.

Cornflower Blue.—Dye the ground with 2-1/2 lb. Diamine azo blue 2 B, 1-1/2 oz. Alkali blue 3 B, 1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black S O O O, and top with 1 oz. Metaphenylene blue B, 2 oz. New methylene blue R and 1 oz. Indigo blue N.

Slate.—Dye with 7 oz. Diamine dark blue B and 1 oz. Diamine brown M; top with 1 oz. Aniline grey B and 1 oz. Cyanole extra.

Pale Drab.—Dye the ground with 1 oz. Diamine orange G C, 3/4 oz. Diamine bronze G and 1/2 oz. Diamine brown M; top with 3/4 oz. New methylene blue N, 1 oz. Bismarck brown and 1 oz. Cyanole extra.

Deep Leaf Green.—Dye a ground colour with 1-1/4 lb. Diamine bronze G, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A and 1-1/2 lb. Diamine black H W; the topping bath is made with 1/2 lb. Brilliant green, 1/2 lb. Chrysoidine and 1/4 lb. New methylene blue N.

Maroon.—Dye with 3 lb. Diamine Bordeaux S, 1/2 lb. Diamine orange D C and 1/2 lb. Diamine brown V; top with 1/2 lb. Magenta and 1/4 lb. Formyl violet S 4 B.

Heliotrope.—Dye with 1 lb. Heliotrope 2 B.

Lilac Rose.—Dye with 8 lb. Columbia black R and 1 lb. Alkali blue B; after dyeing pass through a weak acetic acid bath, then wash well.

Pea Green.—Dye with 2 lb. Chrysophenine, 1 lb. Chicago blue 6 B and 1 lb. Alkali blue 6 B; pass, after dyeing, through a weak acetic acid bath, then wash well.

Dark Drab.—Dye with 1/4 lb. Diamine brown M, 1 lb. Diamine fast yellow A and 3/4 lb. Diamine bronze G; top with 1/2 lb. Orange G G and 1/2 lb. Cyanole extra.

Deep Rose.—Dye the bottom colour with 1/2 lb. Diamine rose B D and top with 1/4 lb. Rhodamine B and 1 oz. Safranine.

Walnut Brown.—Dye the bottom colour with 1 lb. Oxydiamine black D, 1 lb. Diamine brown M and 1 lb. Oxydiamine violet B; the topping is done with 4 oz. Safranine, 2 oz. New methylene blue N and 2 oz. Chrysoidine.

=Dyeing of Plain Black.=—Diamine blacks find a very extensive application for dyeing blacks on satin, either dyed direct in one bath, or dyed, diazotised and developed.

Union black S and Oxydiamine black D are particularly suitable for direct blacks, and are used either alone or in a combination with Diamine jet black S S, which produces a better covering of the silk, or with Oxydiamine black S O O O, which deepens the shade of the cotton. According to the shade required Diamine fast yellow A and B, Diamine green B or G, or Alkaline blue may be used for shading.

Dye for about one hour at about 175 deg. to 195 deg. F. in as concentrated a bath as possible, with about 7 to 8 lb. dye per 100 lb. of satin, 8 to 16 oz. Glauber's salt and 5 to 8 oz. soap per 10 gallons dye liquor; keep cool in the bath for some time and rinse.

The raising is either done in a tepid soap bath with the addition of some new methylene blue, or in an acid bath to which Naphthol, blue black, Acid green, etc., is added for shading the silk.

Direct dyed blacks are especially suitable for cheap goods (ribbons, light linings, etc.), for which special fastness to water is not required; also for tram and tussar silk plushes, which are afterwards topped with logwood.

If greater fastness is required, and more especially if it is a case of replacing aniline black, Diaminogene diazotised and developed is a good dye-stuff. It is extensively used for dyeing umbrella cloths and linings. Against aniline black it has the great advantage of not tendering the fibre in the least, and not turning green during storage. Diaminogene B and Diaminogene extra are mostly used for this purpose, the former for jet blacks, the latter for blue-black shades.

Proceed as follows: Enter the boiled off and acidulated goods in a boiling bath as concentrated as possible, charged with 16 oz. Glauber's salt per 10 gallons liquor, and 1 lb. acetic acid per 100 lb. dry goods. For jet black add for 100 lb. satin, 6 to 8 lb. Diaminogene, 1 to 2 lb. Naphthylamine black D, 1/2 to 1 lb. Diamine fast yellow A or Diamine green B; for very deep shades about 1/5 of the quantity of Diaminogene B may be replaced with Diamine jet black S S. For blue black, 6 to 8 lb. Diaminogene B, or 3 to 4 lb. Diaminogene B, and 3 to 4 lb. Diaminogene extra. Dye for three-quarters to one hour at the boil, allow to cool in the bath for about thirty minutes, then rinse, diazotise and develop.

Phenylene diamine (93 per cent.) serves for developing jet blacks mixed with resorcine for greenish shades. Beta-naphthol is used for blue blacks (1 lb. 5 oz. per 100 lb. of dry material, dissolved in its own weight of soda lye, 75 deg. Tw.). The three developers may also be mixed with each other in any proportions.

After developing soap hot with addition of new methylene blue, by choosing a reddish or a bluish brand of new methylene, blue and black may be shaded at will in the soap bath; finally rinse and raise with acetic acid.

If properly carried out this process will give a black almost equal to aniline black; but having, as already mentioned, the advantage of not impairing the strength of the fibre, and not turning green during storage.

As the dye-baths for blacks are charged with a proportionately high percentage of dye-stuff for the first bath, and will not exhaust completely, it is advisable to preserve them for further use.

For subsequent lots only two-thirds to three-fourths of the quantities of dye-stuffs used for the first baths are required, which fact has to be taken into consideration when calculating the cost of dyeing.

=Dyeing Shot Effects on Satin.=—Not all direct colours are equally well adapted for the production of shot effects; those enumerated in Group I. are most suitable for the purpose, and should be dyed with a larger quantity of soap than is usual for solid shades, in order to leave the silk as little tinted as possible. Dye-stuffs of the other groups may be used if the dyeing is conducted with proper care, i.e., keeping the baths more alkaline and lowering the temperature. The goods are dyed with the addition for the two coloured effects previously mentioned, then they are well rinsed, and afterwards the silk is dyed with the suitable acid dye-stuffs, with addition of sulphuric acid at a temperature of about 150 deg. F. Care should be taken not to use too much acid, and to keep the temperature of the bath sufficiently low, as otherwise the acid may cause some of the dye-stuff to go off the cotton and tint the silk. It is best to work at a temperature of about 150 deg. F., with addition of about 3 oz. concentrated sulphuric acid per 10 gallons dye-liquor.

For shading the silk all acid dye-stuffs can be used which have been mentioned in the foregoing tables.

If in shot effects the cotton is to be dyed bright and full shades, this is best achieved by dyeing with direct colours first, and then topping with basic colours as follows:—

Bottom the cotton first with the suitable direct colours, then dye the silk and then treat the pieces for about two hours in a cold tannin bath (about 8 oz. tannin per 10 gallons of water), then rinse once and pass through a tartar emetic bath (about 3 oz. per 10 gallons), rinse thoroughly and dye the cotton to shade with basic colours in a cold bath to which some acetic acid has been added.

Should the silk become a little dull after this process, this may be remedied by a slight soaping. After dyeing rinse well and raise with acetic acid.

=Shot Effects with Black Cotton Warp.=—Effects much in favour are designs composed of black cotton and light or coloured silk. The most suitable black dye for this purpose is Diamine black B H, diazotised and developed.

Dye in as concentrated a bath as possible at about 160 deg. F. with about 6 lb. Diamine black B H, 1 lb. Diamine sky blue, pat., per 100 lb. of dry goods, 1/2 lb. Diamine orange D C, pat., with an addition of 6-1/2 oz. soap, 4 to 5 dr. soda per 10 gallons liquor, 16 oz. Glauber's salt. After dyeing rinse well in a bath containing 6 dr. soda and 3 oz. soap per 10 gallons water, diazotised in a fresh bath with 4 lb. nitrite of soda and 12 lb. hydrochloric acid (per 100 lb. of dry goods), rinse thoroughly and develop with 3 to 16 oz. phenylene diamine (93 per cent.), with addition of 1 to 2 lb. soda. These two operations should follow each other as quickly as possible, also care has to be taken that the diazotised goods are not exposed to direct sunlight or heat, which causes unlevel dyeings. The silk is then cleaned as far as possible by hot soaping, and dyed at about 120 deg. to 140 deg. F., with acid dye-stuffs and the addition of sulphuric acid. After dyeing rinse as usual and brighten.

Yellow and Violet,—Dye the cotton with 2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, the silk with 1 lb. Cyanole extra, and 1 lb. Forinyl violet S 4 B.

Black and Blue.—Dye the cotton with 5 lb. Diamine black B H, 1 lb. Diamine sky blue, and 1/4 lb. Diamine orange D C. After dyeing, diazotise and develop with phenylene diamine as described above. Then dye the silk with 1/2 lb. Pure soluble blue and 1 lb. Cyanole extra.

Black and Crimson.—Dye the black as in the previous recipe, then dye the silk with 2 lb. Brilliant croceine 3 B and 1/2 lb. Rhodamine S.

Blue and Gold.—Dye the cotton with 2 lb. Diamine sky blue and the silk with 1 lb. Fast yellow S.

Dark Blue and Green.—Dye the cotton with 1-1/2 lb. Diamine black B H, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine sky blue and 1/2 lb. Diamine azo blue 2 R; the silk with 2 lb. Naphthol yellow S and 1 lb. New methylene blue G G.

Violet and Yellow.—Dye the cotton with 2 oz. Diamine violet N and the silk with 1 lb. Fast yellow S.

Orange and Violet.—Dye the cotton with 2 lb. Diamine orange D C and the silk with 1 lb. Formyl violet S 4 B.

Dark Blue and Olive.—Dye the cotton with 1-1/2 lb. Diamineral blue R and 1/2 lb. Diamine azo blue 2 R, and the silk with 1 lb. Naphthol yellow B and 1 lb. Orange G G.

Green and Pink.—Dye the cotton with 1-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A and 1/4 lb. Diamine sky blue, and the silk with 1 lb. Erythrosine B.

Brown and Blue.—Dye the cotton with 3 lb. Mikado brown 2 B, and the silk with 1/2 lb. Pure blue.

It is quite possible to produce two coloured effects containing blue in one bath by using Alkali blue as a constituent with a direct dye which works only on to the cotton, the alkali blue going on to the silk, as, for example, in the following recipes:—

Orange and Blue.—The dye-bath is made with 3 lb. Mikado orange 5 R O and 1-1/4 lb. Alkali blue 6 B. After the dyeing the goods are rinsed, then passed through a bath of 1-1/2 lb. sulphuric acid in 10 gallons water, washed well and dried.

Olive and Blue.—The dye-bath is made with 1-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, 2-1/2 lb. Diamine orange DC, 1/4 lb. Diamine sky blue, and 1 lb. Alkali blue 6 B, After dyeing rinse, then acidulate as above and wash well.