CHAPTER V.

DYEING UNION (MIXED COTTON AND WOOL) FABRICS.

There is now produced a great variety of textile fabrics of every conceivable texture by combining the two fibres, cotton and wool, in a number of ways; the variety of these fabrics has of late years considerably increased, which increase may be largely ascribed to the introduction of the direct dyeing colouring matters—the Diamine dyes, the Benzo dyes, the Congo and the Zambesi dyes, for in the dyeing of wool-cotton fabrics they have made a revolution. The dyer of union fabrics, that is, fabrics composed of wool and cotton, was formerly put to great straits to obtain uniform shades on the fabrics supplied to him, owing to the difference in the affinity of the two fibres for the dye-stuffs then known. Now the direct dyes afford him a means of easily dyeing a piece of cotton-wool cloth in any colour of a uniform shade, while the production of two coloured effects is much more under his control, and has led to the increased production of figured-dress fabrics, with the ground in one fibre (wool) and colour, and the design in another fibre (cotton) and colour. The number of direct dyes issued by the various colour manufacturers is so great that it would take a fairly considerable space to discuss them all.

To obtain good results it is needful that the dyer of union fabrics should have a thorough knowledge of the dyes he is using, for each dye makes a rule to itself as regards its power of dyeing wool and cotton—some go better on to the cotton than on to the wool, and vice versa. Some dye wool best at the boil, others equally well below that heat; some go on the cotton at a moderate temperature, others require the dye-bath to be boiling; some will go on to the cotton only, and appear to ignore the wool.

The presence or absence in the dye-bath of such bodies as carbonate of soda, Glauber's salt, etc., has a material influence on the degree of the affinity of the dye-stuff for the two fibres, as will perhaps be noted hereafter. Again, while some of the dyes produce equal colours on both fibres, there are others where the tone is different. With all these peculiarities of the Diamine and other direct dyes the union dyer must make himself familiar. These dyes are used in neutral baths, that is, along with the dye-stuff. It is often convenient to use, along with the direct dyes, some azo or acid dyes, which have the property of dyeing the wool from neutral baths, many examples of such will be found in the practical recipes given below. The dyes now under consideration may be conveniently classed into five groups.

1. Those dyes which dye the cotton and wool from the same bath to the same shade, or nearly so. Among such are Thioflavine S, Diamine fast yellow B, Diamine orange B, Diamine rose B D, Diamine reds 4 B, 5 B, 6 B and 10 B, Diamine fast red F, Diamine Bordeaux B, Diamine brown N, Diamine browns 3 G, B and G, Diamine blues R W, B X, Diamine blue G, Diamine greens G and B, Diamine black H W, Diamine dark blue B, Union blacks B and S, Oxydiamine blacks B, M, D and A, Diamine catechine G, Union blue B B, Oxyphenine, Chloramine yellow, Alkali yellow R, Chromine G, Titan scarlet S, Mimosa, Curcumine, Primuline, Auroline, Congo Corinth B, Thiazole yellow, Columbia yellow, Oxydiamine yellow G G, Oxydiamine oranges G and R, Diamine orange F, Oxydiamine red S.

2. Dyes which dye the cotton a deeper shade than the wool. The following belong to this group: Diamine fast yellow A, Diamine oranges G and D, Diamine catechine G, Diamine catechine B, Diamine sky blue, Diamine blue 2 B, Diamine blue 8 B, Diamine blue B G, Diamine brilliant blue G, Diamine new blue R, Diamine steel blue L, Diamine black R O, Diamine black B 0, Diamine black B H, and Oxydiamine black S O O O, Diamine nitrazol brown G, Diamine sky blue F F, Diamine dark blue B, Diamine Bordeaux B, Diamine violet N, Oxydiamine violet B, Columbia blacks B and F B, Zambesi black B, Congo brown G, Direct yellow G, Direct orange B, Clayton yellow, Cotton yellow, orange T A, Benzo purpurine B, Brilliant Congo R, Chicago blues B and 4 B and 6 B.

3. Dyes which dye wool a deeper shade than the cotton. The dyes in this group are not numerous. They are Diamine gold, Diamine scarlet B, Diamine scarlet 3 B, Diamine Bordeaux S, Diamine blue R W, and Diamine green G, Diamine reds N 0 and B, Chicago blues G and R, Brilliant purpurine R, Diamine scarlet B, Delta purpurine 5 B, Chrysamine, Titan blue, Titan pink, Congo oranges G and R, Erie blue 2 G, Congo R, Brilliant Congo R, Erika B N, Benzo purpurines 4 B and 10 B, Chrysophenine, Titan yellow, Titan browns Y, R and O, Congo brown G, Sulphon azurine B, Zambesi black B.

4. Dyes which produce different shades on the two fibres. Diamine brown G, and Diamine blue 3 R, Diamine brown V, Diamine brown S, Diamine nitrazol brown B, Diamine blues B X and 3 R, Diamine blue black E, Benzo blue black G, Benzo purpurine 10 B, Benzo azurines R, G and 3 G, Columbia red S, Brilliant azurine 5 G, Titan marine blue, Congo Corinths G and B, Azo blue, Hessian violet, Titan blue, Azo mauve, Congo brown, Diamine bronze G, Zambesi browns G and 2 G, Zambesi black F.

5. Azo-acid dyes, which dye wool from neutral baths, and are therefore suitable for shading up the wool to the cotton in union fabric dyeing. Among the dyes thus available may be enumerated: Naphthol blues G and R, Naphthol blue black, Formyl violet 10 B, Lanacyl blue B B, Lanacyl blue R, Alkaline blue, Formyl violets S 4 B and 6 B, Rocceleine, Azo red A, Croceine A Z, Brilliant scarlet, Orange extra, Orange E N Z, Indian yellow G, Indian yellow R, Tropaeoline O O, Naphthylamine black 4 B and Naphthol blue black, Brilliant scarlet G, Lanacyl violet B, Brilliant milling green B, Thiocarmine R, Formyl blue B, Naphthylamine blacks D, 4 B and 6 B; Azo-acid yellow, Curcumine extra, Mandarine G, Ponceau 3 R B, Acid violet 6 B, Guinea violet 4 B, Guinea green B, Wool black 6 B.

Regarding the best methods of dyeing, that in neutral baths yields the most satisfactory results in practical working. It is done in a boiling hot or in a slightly boiling bath, with the addition of 6-1/4 oz. crystallised Glauber's salt per gallon water for the first bath, and when the baths are kept standing 20 per cent. crystallised Glauber's salt, reckoned upon the weight of the goods, for each succeeding lot.

In dyeing unions, the dye-baths must be as concentrated as possible, and must not contain more than from 25 to 30 times as much water as the goods weigh. In this respect it may serve as a guide that concentrated baths are best used when dyeing dark shades, while light shades can be dyed in more diluted baths. The most important factor for producing uniform dyeings is the appropriate regulation of the temperature of the dye-bath. Concerning this, the dyer must bear in mind that the direct colours possess a greater affinity for the cotton if dyed below the boiling point, and only go on the wool when the bath is boiling, especially so the longer and more intensely the goods are boiled.

The following method of dyeing is perhaps the best one: Charge the dye-bath with the requisite dye-stuff and Glauber's salt, boil up, shut off the steam, enter the goods and let run for half an hour without steam, then sample. If the shade of both cotton and wool is too light add some more of the dye-stuffs used for both fibres, boil up once more and boil for a quarter to half an hour. If the wool only is too light, or its shade different from that of the cotton, add some more of the dye-stuff used for shading the wool and bring them again to the boil. If, however, the cotton turns out too light, or does not correspond in shade to the wool, add some more of the dye-stuffs used for dyeing the cotton, without, however, raising the temperature. Prolonged boiling is only necessary very rarely, and generally only if the goods to be dyed are difficult to penetrate, or contain qualities of wool which only with difficulty take up the dye-stuff. In such cases, in making up the bath dye-stuffs are to be selected some of which go only on the wool and others which go only on the cotton (those belonging to the second group).

The goods can then be boiled for some time, and perfect penetration and level shades will result. If the wool takes up the dye-stuff easily (as is frequently the case with goods manufactured from shoddy), and are therefore dyed too dark a shade, then dye-stuffs have to be used which principally dye the cotton, and a too high temperature should be avoided. In such cases it is advisable to diminish the affinity of the wool by the addition of one-fifth of the original quantity of Glauber's salt (about 3/8 oz. per gallon water), and from three-quarters to four-fifths of the dye-stuff used for the first lot. Care has to be taken that not much of the dye liquor is lost when taking out the dyed goods, otherwise the quantities of Glauber's salt and dye-stuff will have to be increased proportionately. Wooden vats, such as are generally used for piece dyeing, have proved the most suitable. They are heated with direct, or, still better, with indirect steam. The method which has proved most advantageous is to let the steam run into a space separated from the vat by a perforated wall, into which space the required dye-stuffs and salt are placed.

The mode of working is rather influenced by the character of the goods, and the following notes will be found useful by the union dyer:—

Very little difficulty will be met with in dyeing such light fabrics as Italians, cashmere, serges and similar thin textiles lightly woven from cotton warp and woollen weft. When deep shades (blacks, dark blues, browns and greens), are being dyed it is not advisable to make up the dye-bath with the whole of the dyes at once. It is much better to add these in quantities of about one-fourth at a time at intervals during the dyeing of the piece. It is found that the affinity of the wool for the dyes at the boil is so much greater than is that of the cotton that it would, if the whole of the dye were used, take up too much of the colour, and then would come up too deep in shade. Never give a strong boil with such fabrics, but keep the bath just under the boil, which results in the wool dyeing much more nearly like to cotton.

Bright Yellow.—Use 2 lb. Thioflavine S in a bath which contains 4 lb. Glauber's salt per 10 gallons of dye liquor.

Good Yellow.—A very fine deep shade is dyed with 2-1/2 lb. Diamine gold and 2-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, in the same way as the last. Here advantage is taken of the fact that while the Diamine gold dyes the wool better than the cotton, the yellow dyes the cotton the deeper shade, and between the two a uniform shade of yellow is got.

Pale Gold Yellow.—Use a dye liquor containing 4 lb. Glauber's salt in every 10 gallons, 2-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, 2 oz. Indian yellow G and 3-1/2 oz. Indian yellow R. In this recipe there is used in the two last dyes purely wool yellows, which dye the wool the same tint as the fast yellow A dyes the cotton.

Bright Yellow.—Use in the same way as the last, 2-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow B and 3 oz. Indian yellow G.

Gold Orange.—Use as above 2 lb. Diamine orange G, 5-1/2 oz. Indian yellow K and 1-1/2 oz. Orange E N Z.

Deep Orange.—Use 2-1/2 lb. Diamine orange D C, 6-1/2 oz. Orange E N Z, and 3-1/4 oz. Indian yellow R.

Black.—Use 4-1/2 lb. Union black S, 2 oz. Diamine fast yellow A, 5 oz. Naphthol blue black and 3-1/4 oz. Formyl violet S 4 B, with 4 lb. Glauber's salt in each 10 gallons dye liquor.

Navy Blue.—Use 1-1/4 lb. Union black S, 3 lb. Diamine black B H, 1/2 oz. Naphthol blue black, 1/2 lb. Formyl violet S 4 B and 2-1/2 oz. alkaline blue B.

Red Plum.—Use a dye-bath containing 2-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine violet B and 3-1/4 oz. Formyl violet S 4 B.

Dark Green.—A fine shade can be dyed in a bath containing 3 lb. Diamine green B and 1-1/2 lb. Diamine black H W.

Dark Slate.—Use 4 lb. Diamine black H W, 2 oz. Naphthol blue black and 3 oz. Azo red A.

Sage.—Use a dye-bath containing 4 lb. Diamine bronze G and 1-1/4 oz. Naphthol blue black.

Dark Brown.—A fine dark shade is got from 2-1/2 lb. Diamine brown V and 2 oz. Naphthol blue black.

Peacock Green.—Use 3-3/4 lb. Diamine steel blue L, 13 oz. Diamine fast yellow B, 14-1/2 oz. Thiocarmine K and 2-1/4 oz. Indian yellow G in a bath of 4 lb. Glauber's salt per gallon dye liquor.

Dark Sea Green.—Use 9 oz. Diamine steel blue L, 3-3/4 oz. Diamine fast yellow B, 1/2 oz. Diamine orange G, 1-1/4 oz. Naphthol blue black and 3/4 oz. Indian yellow G.

Dark Brown.—Use 1 lb. Diamine orange B, 1 lb. Diamine Fast yellow S, 13-3/4 oz. Union black S, 1 lb. Diamine brown M and 1/2 lb. Indian yellow G. Fix in an alum bath after dyeing.

Dark Stone.—Use 1/2 lb. Diamine orange B, 3-3/4 oz. Union black, 1/4 oz. Diamine Bordeaux B, 1-1/2 oz. Azo red A and 3/4 oz. Naphthol blue black.

Black.—A very fine black can be got from 3-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black B M, 2 lb. Union black S, 9-1/2 oz. Naphthol blue black and 4 oz. Formyl violet S 4 B.

Dark Grey.—A fine bluish shade of grey is got from 7 oz. Diamine black B H, 2-1/4 oz. Diamine orange G, 2-1/2 oz. Diamine orange G, 2-1/2 oz. Naphthol blue black and 1 oz. Orange E N Z.

Dark Blue.—A fine shade is got by using 2 lb. Diamine black B H, 1/2 lb. Diamine black H W, and 3-1/2 oz. Alkaline blue 6 B.

Drab.—Use 3-1/2 oz. Diamine orange B, 3/4 oz. Union black, 1/8 oz. Diamine Bordeaux B, 3/4 oz. Azo red A and 1/4 oz. Naphthol blue black.

Plum.—Use 2-1/2 lb. Diamine violet N, 9-1/2 oz. Union black and 1 lb. Formyl violet S 4 B.

Bright Yellow.—Use a dye-bath containing 4 lb. Thioflavine S, 2 lb. Naphthol yellow S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. acetic acid.

Pink.—Use 1/6 oz. Diamine Rose B D, 1/4 oz. Diamine scarlet B, 1/2 oz. Rhodamine B and 20 lb. Glauber's salt.

Scarlet.—A fine shade is got from 1-1/2 lb. Diamine scarlet B, 1/2 oz. Diamine red 5 B and 20 lb. Glauber's salt.

Orange.—Use a dye-bath containing 3-1/2 lb. Diamine orange G, 14-1/2 oz. Tropaeoline O O, and 2-3/4 oz. Orange extra.

Sky Blue.—Use 1-1/2 oz. Diamine sky blue and 1-1/4 oz. Alkaline blue B.

Bright Blue.—A fine shade similar to that formerly known as royal blue is got by using 1-1/2 lb. Diamine brilliant blue G and 9-1/4 oz. Alkaline blue 6 B.

Maroon.—Use 3 lb. Diamine Bordeaux B, 2 lb. Diamine violet N and 3-1/4 oz. Formyl violet S 4 B.

Green.—A fine green similar in shade to that used for billiard-table cloth is got from 2 lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 2 lb. Diamine steel blue L, 14-1/2 oz. Thiocarmine R and 7-1/4 oz. Indian yellow G.

Gold Brown—A fine brown is got from 3 lb. Diamine orange B, 1/2 lb. Union black, 2-1/2 oz. Diamine brown, 3/4 oz. Naphthol blue black and 1/2 lb. Indian yellow G.

Navy Blue.—Use 3-1/4 lb. Diamine black B H, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine brilliant blue G and 1/2 lb. Alkaline blue.

Fawn Drab.—A fine shade is got by dyeing in a bath containing 6-3/4 oz. Diamine orange B, 1-3/4 lb. Union black, 1/4 oz. Naphthol blue black, 1/4 oz. Diamine Bordeaux B and 1 oz. Azo red A.

In all these colours the dye-baths contain Glauber's salt at the rate of 4 lb. per 10 gallons.

Dark Brown.—2-1/2 lb. Diamine orange B, 13 oz. Diamine Bordeaux B, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine fast yellow B, 1-3/4 lb. Union black and 3-1/2 oz. Naphthol black.

Drab.—1-3/4 lb. Diamine fast yellow R, 3-1/4 oz. Diamine Bordeaux B, 2-1/2 oz. Union black, 1/2 oz. Naphthol blue black and 1-1/4 oz. Indian yellow G.

Dark Blue.—Use in the dye-bath 4-1/4 lb. Diamine dark blue B, 1-1/2 lb. Diamine brilliant blue G, 3/4 lb. Formyl violet S 4 B and 5 oz. Naphthol blue black.

Blue Black—Use 3-1/2 lb. Union black S, 1-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black B M, 6-1/2 oz. Naphthol blue black and 1/4 lb. Formyl violet S 4 B.

Dark Walnut.—2-3/4 lb. Diamine brown M, 1-1/2 lb. Union black S, and 11-1/4 oz. Indian yellow G.

Peacock Green.—Use in the dye-bath 3 lb. Diamine black H W, 5-1/6 oz. Diamine fast yellow B, 1-1/4 lb. Thiocarmine R and 1-1/6 oz. Indian yellow G.

Slate Blue.—Use in the dye-bath 6-1/2 oz. Diamine carechine B, 4-3/4 oz. Diamine orange B, 2-1/2 oz. Union black, 2-3/4 oz. Orange E N Z, and 1-3/4 oz. Naphthol blue black.

Dark Sage.—A good shade is dyed with 1 lb. Diamine orange B, 6-1/2 oz. Union black, 1-3/4 oz. Diamine brown M, 3-1/4 oz. azo red A and 2-1/4 oz. Naphthol blue black.

Navy Blue.—Use 2 lb. Diamine dark blue B, 1-1/4 lb. Lanacyl violet B, and 7 oz. Naphthol blue black.

Bronze Green.—A good shade is dyed with 2 lb. Diamine orange B, 5 oz. Diamine brown N, 3/4 lb. Union black S, 1 lb. Indian yellow G and 2-1/2 oz. Naphthol blue black.

Black.—Use 2-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black B M and 1-1/2 lb. Naphthylamine black 6 B. Another recipe, 2-1/4 lb. Oxydiamine black B M, 1 lb. Diamine brown M, 1 lb. Orange E N Z and 2 oz. Naphthol blue black.

Dark Brown.—Use 1-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black B M, 15-1/2 oz. Diamine brown M, 1-3/4 lb. Indian yellow G and 2-3/4 oz. Naphthol blue black. Another combination, 1-1/2 lb. Oxydiamine black B M, 1-1/2 lb. Orange E N Z, 1 lb. Indian yellow G and 5 oz. Naphthol blue black.

Scarlet.—3 lb. Benzo purpurine 4 B, 3/4 oz. Ponceau 3 R B and 1/2 lb. Curcumine S.

Crimson.—1/2 lb. Congo Corinth G, 2 lb. Benzo purpurine 10 B and 1/2 lb. Curcumine S.

Bright Blue.—2 lb. Chicago blue 6 B, 3 oz. Alkali blue 6 B, 1-1/2 oz. Zambesi blue R X. After dyeing rinse and develop in a bath of 8 oz. sulphuric acid in 10 gallons of water, then rinse well.

Dark Blue.—2-1/2 lb. Columbia fast blue 2 G, 3 oz. Sulphon azurine D, 8 oz. Alkali blue 6 B. After dyeing rinse and develop in a bath of 8 oz. sulphuric acid in 20 gallons of water.

Orange.—9 oz. Congo brown G, 1-1/2 lb. Mikado orange 4 R O and 1-1/2 oz. Mandarine G.

Dark Green.—2 lb. Columbia green, 1/2 lb. Sulphon azurine D, 1 lb. Zambesi blue B X, 1-1/2 oz. Curcumine S.

Black.—4 lb. Columbia black F B and 2 lb. Wool black 6 B.

Pale Sage Green.—5 oz. Zambesi black D, 3/4 lb. Chrysophenine G and 1-1/2 lb. Curcumine S.

Slate.—1/2 lb. Zambesi black D, 3/4 oz. Zambesi blue R X, 1/2 oz. Mikado orange 4 R 0 and 1-1/2 oz. Acid violet 6 B.

Dark Grey.—1 lb. Columbia black F B, 3 oz. Zambesi black B and 3/4 oz. Sulphon azurine D.

Drab.—1-1/2 oz. Zambesi black D, 3/4 oz. Mandarine G extra, 1/4 oz. Curcumine extra and 3 oz. Mikado orange 4 R O.

Brown.—5 oz. Zambesi black D, 3/4 oz. Mandarine G extra, 1-1/2 oz. Orange T A and 2 oz. Mikado orange 4 R 0.

Nut Brown.—3/4 lb. Congo brown G, 1/4 lb. Chicago blue R W and 3/4 lb. Mikado orange 4 R 0.

Dark Brown.—1 lb. Congo brown G, 1-1/2 lb. Benzo purpurine 4 B, 1-1/2 lb. Zambesi black F and 1/2 lb. Wool black 6 B.

Stone.—1 oz. Zambesi black D, 1/4 oz. Mandarine G, 1/4 oz. Curcumine extra and 1-1/4 oz. Mikado orange 4 R 0.

Slate Green.—3 oz. Zambesi black D, 1-1/2 oz. Guinea green B.

Sage Brown.—1/2 lb. Zambesi black D, 1-1/2 oz. Mandarine G extra, 3 oz. Curcumine extra, 3 oz. Acid violet 6 B, 6 oz. Mikado orange 4 R 0 and 4-1/2 oz. Curcumine S.

Cornflower Blue.—3 oz. Chicago blue 4 R, 1/4 lb. Zambesi blue R X, 1/4 lb. Acid violet 6 B and 3/4 oz. Zambesi brown G.

Dark Brown.—1-1/2 lb. Brilliant orange G, 1/2 lb. Orange T A, 1 lb. Columbia black F B and 1/4 lb. Wool black 6 B.

Dark Blue.—2 lb. Chicago blue W, 1 lb. Zambesi blue R X, 1/2 lb. Columbia black F B, 10 oz. Guinea green B and 1/2 lb. Guinea violet 4 B.

The Janus dyes may be used for the dyeing of half wool (union) fabrics. The best plan of working is to prepare a bath with 5 lb. of sulphate of zinc; in this the goods are worked at the boil for five minutes, then there is added the dyes previously dissolved in water, and the working continued for a quarter of an hour; there is then added 20 lb. Glauber's salt, and the working at the boil continued for one hour, at the end of which time the dye-bath will be fairly well exhausted of colour. The goods are now taken out and put into a fixing-bath of sumac or tannin, in which they are treated for fifteen minutes; to this same bath there is next added tartar emetic and 1 lb. sulphuric acid, and the working continued for a quarter of an hour, then the bath is heated to 160 deg. F., when the goods are lifted, rinsed and dried. In the recipes the quantities of the dyes, sumac or tannin and tartar emetic are given only, the other ingredients and processes are the same in all.

Dark Blue.—2-1/4 lb. Janus dark blue B and 1/4 lb. Janus green B in the dye-bath, and 16 lb. sumac extract and 2 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.

Blue Black.—3-1/2 lb. Janus black I and 1/2 lb. Janus black II in the dye-bath, and 16 lb. sumac extract and 2 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.

Dark Brown.—2-1/2 lb. Janus brown B, 1 lb. Janus black I, 3-1/2 oz. Janus yellow G and 5 oz. Janus red B in the dye-bath, with 16 lb. sumac extract and 2 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.

Drab.—1-1/2 oz. Janus yellow R, 3/4 oz. Janus red B, 1 oz. Janus blue R and 1/4 oz. Janus grey B B in the dye-bath, and 4 lb. sumac extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.

Grey.—5 oz. Janus blue R, 3-1/4 oz. Janus grey B, 1-1/2 oz. Janus yellow R and 1/4 oz. Janus red B in the dye-bath, with 4 lb. sumach extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.

Nut Brown.—1 lb. Janus brown R, 8 oz. Janus yellow R and 1-1/2 oz. Janus blue B in the dye-bath, and 8 lb. sumac extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.

Walnut Brown.—3 lb. Janus brown B, 1 lb. Janus red B, 1 lb. Janus yellow R, 1-1/4 oz. Janus green B in the dye-bath, with 8 lb. sumac extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.

Crimson.—2-1/2 lb. Janus red B and 8 oz. Janus claret red B in the dye-bath, with 8 lb. sumac extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.

Dark Green.—1-1/2 lb. Janus green B, 1-1/2 lb. Janus yellow R and 8 oz. Janus grey B B in the dye-bath, with 12 lb. sumac extract and 1-1/4 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.

Chestnut Brown.—1 lb. Janus brown R and 1 lb. Janus yellow R in the dye-bath, and 8 lb. sumac extract and 1 lb. tartar emetic in the fixing-bath.

Before the introduction of the direct dyes the method usually followed, and, indeed still used to a great extent, is that known as cross dyeing. The goods were woven with dyed cotton threads of the required shade, and undyed woollen threads. After weaving and cleansing the woollen part of the fabric was dyed with acid dyes, such as Acid magenta, Scarlet R, Acid yellow, etc. In such methods care has to be taken that the dyes used for dyeing the cotton are such as stand acids, a by no means easy condition to fulfil at one time. Many of the direct dyes are fast to acids and, therefore, lend themselves more or less readily to cross dyeing. For details of the dyes for cotton reference may be made to the sections on dyeing with the direct colours, page 85, etc., while information as to methods of dyeing the wool will be found in the companion volume to this on Dyeing of Woollen Fabrics.

=Shot Effects.=—A pleasing kind of textile fabric which is now made, and is a great favourite for ladies' dress goods, is where the cotton of a mixed fabric is thrown up to form a figured design. It is possible to dye the two fibres in different colours, and so produce a variety of shot effects. These latter are so endless that it is impossible here to enumerate all that may be produced. It will have to suffice to lay down the lines which may be followed to the best advantage, and then give some recipes to illustrate the remarks that have been made. The best plan for the production of shot effects upon union fabrics is to take advantage of the property of certain acid dyes which dye only the wool in an acid bath, and of many of the direct colours which will only dye the cotton in an alkaline bath. The process, working on these lines, becomes as follows: The wool is first dyed in an acid bath with the addition of Glauber's salt and bisulphate of soda, or sulphuric acid, the goods are then washed with water containing a little ammonia to free them from the acid, and afterwards dyed with the direct colour in an alkaline bath.

Fancy or the mode shades are obtained by combining suitable dye-stuffs.

If the cotton is to be dyed in light shades it is advantageous to dye on the liquor at 65 deg. to 80 deg. F., with the addition of 3-1/4 oz. Glauber's salt, and from 20 to 40 grains borax per gallon water. The addition of an alkali is advisable in order to neutralise any slight quantities of acid which may have remained in the wool, and to prevent the dye-stuff from dyeing the cotton too deep a shade.

Very light shades can also be done on the padding machine. The dye-stuffs of Group II., which have been previously enumerated, do not stain the wool at all, or only very slightly, and are, therefore, the most suitable. Less bright effects can be produced by simply dyeing the goods in one bath. The wool is first dyed at the boil with the respective wool dye-stuff in a neutral bath, the steam is then shut off and the cotton dyed by adding the cotton dye-stuff to the bath, and dyeing without again heating. By passing the goods through cold water to which some sulphuric or acetic acid is added, the brightness of most effects is greatly increased.

Gold and Green.—First bath, 1 lb. Cyanole extra, 7-1/4 oz. Acid green, 1-1/2 oz. Orange G G, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda; work at the boil for one hour, then lift and rinse well. Second bath, 4 lb. Diamine orange G and 15 lb. Glauber's salt; work in the cold or at a lukewarm heat. Third bath, at 120 deg. F., 4 oz. Chrysoidine and 1/4 oz. Safranine.

Black and Blue.—First bath, 3-1/2 lb. Naphthol black 3 B and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 2 lb. Diamine sky blue and 13 lb. Glauber's salt. Third bath, 6-1/2 oz. New Methylene blue N. Work as in the last recipe.

Green and Claret.—First bath, 3-1/2 lb. Naphthol red C and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 2 lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 1-1/4 lb. Thioflavine S, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

Gold Brown and Blue.—First bath, 2-1/2 oz. orange E N Z, 1-1/2 oz. Orange G G, 1/4 oz. Cyanole extra and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 14 oz. Diamine sky blue F F and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

Dark Brown and Blue.—First bath, 1/2 lb. Orange G G, 1-1/2 oz. Orange E N Z, 1-1/2 oz. Cyanole extra and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 12 oz. Diamine sky blue F F and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

Black and Green Blue.—First bath, 3 lb. Orange G G, 1 lb. Brilliant cochineal 4 R, 1 lb. Fast acid green B N and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Second bath, 1-3/4 lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 3-1/4 lb. Thioflavine S and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

We may here note that in all the above recipes the second bath (for dying the cotton) should be used cold or at lukewarm heat and as strong as possible. It is not completely exhausted of colour, only about one-half going on the fibre. If kept as a standing bath this feature should be borne in mind, and less dye-stuff used in the dyeing of the second and following lots of goods.

Blue and Gold Yellow.—3 lb. Diamine orange G, 13 oz. Naphthol blue G, 14-1/2 oz. Formyl violet S 4 B and 15 lb. Glauber's salt. Work at just under the boil.

Brown and Blue.—1 lb. Diamine steel blue L, 9-1/2 oz. Diamine sky blue, 1 lb. Orange E N Z, 1 lb. Indian yellow G, 1-3/4 oz. Naphthol blue black and 15 lb. Glauber s salt. Work at 170 deg. to 180 deg. F.

In these two last recipes only one bath is used, all the dyes being added at once. This is possible if care be taken that dye-stuffs of two kinds are used, one or more which will dye wool and not cotton from neutral baths, and those direct dyes which dye cotton better than wool. The temperature should also be kept below the boil and carefully regulated as the operation proceeds and the results begin to show themselves.

Grey and Orange.—First bath, 3 oz. Orange extra, 1-1/4 lb. Cyanole extra, 1 lb. Azo red A and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 5 oz. Diamine orange D C and 3 oz. Diamine fast yellow B.

Green and Red.—First bath, 2 lb. Croceine A Z, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt. Second bath, 1 lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 1/2 lb. Thioflavine S, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

Brown and Violet.—First bath, 3/4 lb. Orange extra, 3/4 lb. Cyanole extra, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 5 oz. Diamine brilliant blue G, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

Black and Yellow.—First bath, 7 lb. Naphthol black B, 1/2 lb. Fast yellow S, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath 3 lb. Diamine fast yellow A, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

Black and Pink.—Black as above. Pink with Diamine rose B D (see above).

Green and Buff.—First bath, 1/4 lb. Orange extra, 3/4 oz. Fast yellow S, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 3/4 lb. Diamine sky blue F F, 1/2 lb. Thioflavine S, and 15 lb. Glauber's salt.

Orange and Violet.—First bath, 9 oz. Orange extra, and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Second bath, 3/4 lb. Diamine violet N, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.

Black and Blue.—First bath, Naphthol black as given above. Second bath, Diamine sky blue as given above.

Black and Yellow.—Add first 1 lb. Wool black 6 B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then, when the wool has been dyed, add 2 lb. Curcumine S to dye the cotton in the same bath.

Green and Red.—Dye the wool by using 3 lb. Guinea green B, 1/4 lb. Curcumeine extra, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then add to the bath 3/4 lb. Erika B N, and 3/4 lb. Congo Corinth G.

Orange and Blue.—Dye the wool first with 1-1/4 lb. Mandarine G, 2 oz. Wool black 6 B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; then the cotton with 2 lb. Columbia blue G.

Blue and Orange.—Dye the wool first with 3/4 lb. Guinea violet B, 3/4 lb. Guinea green B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; then dye the cotton with 2 lb. Mikado orange 4 R O.

Green and Orange.—Dye the wool with 3 lb. Guinea green B, 1/4 lb. Curcumeine extra, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then dye the cotton in the same bath with 1-1/2 lb. Mikado orange 4 R O.