

A renowned culinary historian offers a fresh perspective on our most divisive cultural issue, race, in this illuminating memoir of Southern cuisine and food culture that traces his ancestry—both black and white—through food, from Africa to America and slavery to freedom. Southern food is integral to the American culinary tradition, yet the question of who “owns” it is one of the most provocative touch points in our ongoing struggles over race. In this unique memoir, culinary historian Michael W. Twitty takes readers to the white-hot center of this fight, tracing the roots of his own family and the charged politics surrounding the origins of soul food, barbecue, and all Southern cuisine.
A glimpse inside

Twitty frames food as a living archive, carrying the memories, struggles, and triumphs of generations. He traces his own genealogy—both black and white—through recipes, ingredients, and cooking methods, showing how culinary traditions preserve family and cultural histories. This approach highlights how dishes are not just sustenance but also vessels of identity, survival, and resistance.
A central theme of the book is the contested ownership of Southern food. Twitty explores how African American cooks, both enslaved and free, shaped what we now call Southern cuisine, yet their contributions are often erased or appropriated. He interrogates who gets credit for culinary innovation and how food reflects broader power dynamics and racial histories.
Ratings at a glance
- 1Food as Ancestral Memory
- 2Race, Power, and Ownership in Southern Cuisine
- 3Genealogy and Personal Discovery
- 4Reclaiming and Healing Through Food
- 5The Politics of Authenticity
Popular quotes from The Cooking Gene
“Food is about memory. It is about survival and transcendence.”
“My entire existence is a testament to the fact that the South is a place of mixed blood and mixed food.”